Tyson Cole — the rare American-born sushi master and James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: Southwest — opened the first Uchi in a refurbished South Austin bungalow in 2003. This is the brand's Washington debut, set on M Street in a downtown trophy office tower between the White House and Dupont Circle, with the room designed by New York's Islyn Studio and Hai Design Studio to channel the city's 1960s era of martinis and espionage. Chef de cuisine Rob Drennan, a veteran of three-Michelin-starred Maaemo in Oslo and of DC's Rose's Luxury group, runs the kitchen — hama chili yellowtail crudo, fish-caramel Brussels sprouts, and a chawanmushi dressed with Maryland crab. A seven-course signature tasting runs $120; a chef's tasting climbs to $300 to $350.