Lewis Barbecue

John Lewis brought Central Texas barbecue to Charleston after years pitmastering at Franklin and la Barbecue in Austin — a custom-built Houston-shaped smoker, post oak, brisket sliced to spec. The brisket is the order; the beef ribs are monumental; the green chile corn pudding is the side that ruins you for other sides. Less rooted in Carolina tradition than imported Texas religion. For Texas-style barbecue done by one of the people who actually taught the Austin masters.